2005 KIA Optima Problems & Complaints

The contact owns a 2005 Kia Optima. The contact was unable to use the key to manually unlock the door to the vehicle. Additionally, the vehicle failed to open consistently from inside the vehicle. Due to the failure, the contact was unable to take the vehicle to the dealer to be diagnosed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 82,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO EXIT THE VEHICLE, THE DOOR'S FAILED TO UNLOCK. THE CONTACT HAD TO EXIT THROUGH THE SUN ROOF. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT HE WAS ABLE TO UNLOCK THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR FROM OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE; HOWEVER, THE FRONT DRIVER'S DOOR WAS INOPERABLE. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 140,000.

THE VEHICLE HAS HAD BOTH FRONT DOORS HAVE FAILED LATCHES IN THE LAST YEAR. WHAT WILL HAPPEN IS YOU WILL GO TO UNLOCK THE DOOR AND THE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUT WITHOUT SIGNIFICANT FORCE OR NOT AT ALL. I WENT 2 MONTHS WITHOUT BEING ABLE TO OPEN MY PASSENGER SIDE DOOR, AND NOW I JUST KEEP MY DOORS UNLOCKED ALL THE TIME SO I DON'T NEED TO DEAL WITH IT. *TR

THE DRIVERS DOOR WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK, THOUGH IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO OPEN THE DOOR. IT WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE HANDLE. THE ELECTRONIC LOCK FOB WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK THE CAR. THE KEY WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK THE CAR. ENTRY AND EXIT MUST BE DONE BY CLIMBING OVER THE CENTER CONSOLE AND GOING THROUGH THE PASSENGER DOOR. THIS IS A MAJOR HAZARD TO THE DRIVER AND FELLOW PASSENGERS. IF WE SHOULD BE INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT WITH MY TWO YOUNG BOYS IN THE CAR, I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO HELP THEM EXIT THE CAR UNTIL I HAVE CLIMBED OVER THE CENTER CONSOLE AND EXITED THROUGH THE PASSENGER DOOR. HELP!!!!!!!! THIS IS DEFINITELY A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE RELATED TO THE KIA BRAND OF CARS. ALL OVER THE INTERNET IT IS DISCUSSED HOW THIS PROBLEM HAS BECOME A PROBLEM FOR ALL TYPES OF KIA MODELS. *TR

2005 KIA OPTIMA. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO DRIVERS SIDE DOOR ISSUES. *SMD THE CONSUMER STATED THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN WITH THE KEY FOB AND IT WOULD NOT OPEN WITH THE KEY. WHEN SHE INSERTED THE KEY AND TURNED IT, SHE COULD HEAR THE ACTUATOR ENGAGING AS THOUGH IT WERE UNLOCKING, BUT ONCE SHE TRIED THE DOOR HANDLE, THE DOOR REFUSED TO OPEN. AFTER SEVERAL MINUTES, THE DOOR FINALLY RELEASED AND OPENED, BUT TO LOCK THE DOOR AND CLOSE IT, RESULTED IN THE SAME ISSUE. *JB UPDATED 04/22/14

MY AIRBAG CONTINUES TO HAVE PROBLEMS AND THE AIRBAG LIGHT WILL NOT GO OFF FOR OVER A YEAR NOW. THE CAR WAS JUST STARTED AND STATIONARY WHEN THE LIGHT WENT ON.

ONE MORNING I TURNED THE CAR ON AND THE AIR BAG LIGHT CAME ON AND HAS NOT GONE OFF! ; (

I STARTED THE VEHICLE THIS MORNING AND THE AIR BAG LIGHT REMAINED ILLUMINATED. THE LIGHT REMAINS ILLUMINATED AFTER TWO DAYS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE CODES WERE CLEARED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

I NOTICED THAT MY AIRBAG LIGHT WOULD GO OFF AND ON FROM TIME TO TIME, THEN IT WOULD JUST STAY ON. I TOOK IT IN TO THE SHOP, THEY TOLD ME IT WAS A PROBLEM WITH THE SENSOR, THEY REPAIRED IT AND THE PROBLEM CAME BACK. THE AIRBAG LIGHT IS ALWAYS ON. *TR

driver side door lock does not open using the arm rest switch. wife was in the car could reach the switch but not the unlatch lever . Car was overheating with Ac on with keys in the ignition . Had to have her roll down the passenger door window to manually open the rear passenger side door . From the rear seat I could reach the lever and unlock the door. If I could not it would have been a fire hazard.

THE DRIVER DOOR BECOME JAMMED AND SOMETIMES WILL NOT OPEN. YOU HAVE TO CONTINUOUSLY/EXCESSIVELY JERK ON IT. DUE TO NOT OPENING, I HAVE TO CRAWL THROUGH THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR IN ORDER TO GAIN ENTRANCE INTO THE VEHICLE. NOT ONLY THAT, AFTER FINALLY GETTING THE DRIVER DOOR TO OPEN, I HAVE TO LEAVE IT CRACK TO AVOID THIS STRUGGLE.

DRIVERS SIDE DOOR LOCKING MECHANISM MALFUNCTION. MECHANISM WILL NOT ALLOW THE DOOR TO UNLOCK, THEREFORE THE DOOR CAN NOT BE OPENED. DRIVER MUST CLIMB OUT OF PASSENGER SIDE.

FOR THE LAST FEW YEARS THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR LOCK HAS NOT WORKED PROPERLY. IT WILL LOCK WITHOUT PROBLEM BUT THEN WILL NOT UNLOCK. IT CANNOT BE UNLOCKED FROM WITHIN THE VEHICLE AT ALL. TO UNLOCK IT FROM OUTSIDE REQUIRES THAT THE DOOR BE UNLOCKED AT THE SAME TIME THE DOOR HANDLES IS PULLED OPEN. IT REQUIRES MULTIPLE TRIES TO GET IT RIGHT - USUALLY IT TAKES A FEW MINUTES OF PLAYING WITH THE DOOR HANDLE AND KEY TO GET IT TO WORK PROPERLY.

THE FRAME IS EXTENSIVE RUSTED TO THE POINT WHERE THE VEHICLE'S STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY HAS LIKELY BEEN COMPROMISED. NOTHING UNUSUAL HAS HAPPENED THAT WOULD CAUSE SUCH RUST, SUCH AS BACKING INTO SALT WATER, ETC. IT HAS BEEN DRIVEN ON SALTED NY ROADS BUT STILL, THE RUST IS EXTREME ON THIS VEHICLE EVEN WITH THAT TAKEN INTO CONSIDERATION. THE BODY HAS RUSTED EXTENSIVELY AS WELL, TO THE POINT WHERE THE REAR QUARTER PANELS BY THE REAR WHEEL ARCHES HAVE RUSTED COMPLETELY THROUGH.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED, THE LOCKS ON THE DOOR FAILED TO WORK. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED OR DIAGNOSED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE CONTACT HAD NOT EXPERIENCED A FAILURE.

MY PASSENGER SIDE DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK, AND CAN NOT BE OPENED FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE ONLY WAY TO EXIT THE VEHICLE IS TO EITHER CRAWL OUT OF THE WINDOW OR CRAWL OVER THE CENTER CONSOLE. MY FEAR IS IF IN THE EVENT OF EMERGENCY THE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN AND WE WOULD BE SICK IN THE VEHICLE. *TR

I BECAME ENTRAPPED IN MY 2005 KIA OPTIMA WHEN I ACCIDENTALLY HIT THE LOCK. ITS BEEN AN ISSUE BEFORE. WHILE ITS DANGEROUS TO KEEP IT UNLOCKED, I CHOSE THAT OVER BEING LOCKED OUT OR BEING LOCKED IN. LAST NIGHT MY ELBOW HIT THE LOCK AS I PARKED. I HAD MY COWORKER COME PULL THE HANDLE WHILE I PUSHED THE UNLOCK BUTTON. WHILE IT HAS WORKED AFTER SEVERAL TRIES IN THE PAST, IT JUST WOULDN'T GIVE IN. I THEN, HAD MY COWORKER TRY THE PASSENGER SIDE AND IT POPPED. I'M NOW REDUCED TO CLIMBING OVER FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR. WHILE ITS PAINFUL AND TIMELY, ITS NOT AS BAD AS CLIMBING OVER THE BACK. I'VE HAD TO DO THAT WHEN I HAD NO ONE TO CALL FOR HELP. IT'S SO DANGEROUS NOT BEING ABLE TO GET OUT OF YOUR CAR WHEN YOU'RE READY. ITS ALSO HORRIBLE TO THINK ABOUT YOUR VEHICLE NOT BEING THERE WHEN YOU COME OUTSIDE BECAUSE YOU LEFT YOUR DOORS UNLOCKED FOR A CAR THIEF. IF I OPEN MY PASSENGER SIDE DOOR AND PRESS LOCK AND CLOSE IT. I WILL NOT BE ABLE TO ENTER OR USE MY VEHICLE WITHOUT BREAKING A WINDOW. IF THERE WAS A FIRE CAUSE BY SOME SORT OF COLLISION, MY CHILD AND I WOULD BE BURNED BEFORE I COULD GET TO HIM. IF ME OR A PASSENGER ACCIDENTALLY HITS THE LOCK BEFORE WE GET OUT, I'LL HAVE TO BREAK MY OWN WINDOW TO GET BACK IN. I SENT THE CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS AN EMAIL WHICH I'M SURE WILL BE IGNORED LIKE THE MANY OTHERS SENT BEFORE ME. THIS IS SAD CAUSE MECHANICALLY THE CAR SEEMS TO RUN GREAT. THIS IS MY SECOND ONE. IF I HAD OF KEPT THAT ONE LONGER, I'M SURE I WOULD'VE EXPERIENCED THE SAME ISSUE. THIS IS DEFINITELY A SAFETY ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE ACKNOWLEDGED AND FIXED. *TR

I CANNOT ENTER AND EXIT MY CAR SAFELY ANYMORE. THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR LOCK WILL NOT UNLOCK WITH KEY FOB OR BY KEY MANUALLY. I WAS IN A HURRY AT ONE POINT TO EXIT TO RETRIEVE MY CHILD WHO HAD EXITED THE CAR AND WAS HEADING INTO TRAFFIC AT A PARKING LOT AND I COULD NOT GET OUT OF THE CAR. I HAD TO EXIT FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE. THE DOOR WORKS IN RARE INSTANCES, BUT IS NOT RELIABLE OR DEPENDABLE. THIS IS MY ONLY MODE OF TRANSPORTATION AND I HAVE OWNED THE VEHICLE SINCE NEW. HOWEVER, I NO LONGER FEEL SAFE SHOULD I HAVE AN EMERGENCY, I MAY NOT BE ABLE TO ENTER OR EXIT THE CAR AS NEEDED. *TR

THE PASSENGER DOOR LOCK STARTED STICKING AND WILL NOT OPEN. NOW BOTH DOORS ARE LOCKED AND I CANNOT OPEN EITHER. THE BACK DOORS DO OPEN, HOWEVER IT WAS VERY DIFFICULT TO CLIMB OUT THE BACK DOOR. I DON'T KNOW HOW I WILL EVEN GET IT TO A DEALER TO FIX IT. *TR

IN 2011 WE HAD A HOLE FORM IN THE GAS TANK OF OUR 2005 KIA OPTIMA. WE TOOK IT TO A REPAIR SHOP IN WHICH THEY DETERMINED THAT THE STRAPS THAT HOLD THE GAS TANK IN HAD CAUSED WEAR ONTO THE ACTUAL TANK. THEY REPLACED THE TANK WITH NEW GAS TANK (ORIGINAL FACTORY GAS TANK) ON FEBRUARY 7, 2012 THE SAME PROBLEM OCCURRED AND THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN TAKEN BACK IN FOR SERVICING. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FUEL TANK WAS DEFECTIVE AND COULD ONLY BE FILLED PARTIALLY BEFORE SPILLING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A LOCAL MECHANIC WHO DISCOVERED THAT THE PLASTIC FUEL TANK GASKET SEAL FAILED. THE FUEL TANK WAS REPLACED SEVERAL TIMES BUT THE FAILURE CONTINUED TO RECUR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND ADVISED THE CONTACT TO HAVE THE DEALER PERFORM A DIAGNOSTIC TEST. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 50,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 106,000.

THE GAS TANK ON THIS 05 KIA WAS LEAKING AT 78,000 MILES, TOOK IT TO DEALER, I HAD TO PAY FOR LABOR, THEY FURNISHED THE NEW GAS TANK COST ME $330, NOW AT 98,000 MILES IT IS LEAKING AGAIN AND KIA IS REFUSING TO FIX IT, I FEEL THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE, GOING ON 3 GAS TANKS LESS THAN 100,000 MILES. PAID DEALER $95 TO INSPECT THE TANK AS TOLD BY KIA CONSUMER DEPT, DEALER DIDNT LOOK AT THE TANK INSTEAD SAID IT NEEDED A GAS VALVE FIRST $400, BEFORE THEY WOULD LOOK AT THE TANK. THE DEALER IS LEE KIA, IN FT WALTON BEACH FL. SO I GUESS I JUST CONTINUE DRIVING CAR TILL SOMETHING REAL SERIOUS HAPPENS? NEED SOME HELP HERE PLEASE THANK YOU CHALMER & KASEY BERRY

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. AFTER PARKING, THE CONTACT NOTICED A LARGE PUDDLE OF GASOLINE UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE FUEL TANK WAS REPLACED. THE FAILURE RECURRED THREE YEARS LATER. THE FUEL TANK WAS REPLACED A SECOND TIME. THERE WERE NO PRIOR WARNINGS OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 55,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 98,000.

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT GASOLINE WAS LEAKING FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR REPAIR AT LEAST FOUR TIMES; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURS AFTER APPROXIMATELY THREE OR FOUR MONTHS. THE DEALER HAS BEEN REPLACING THE PART THAT HOLDS THE FUEL. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 68,970.

THE CAR WILL RUN FINE, THEN ENGINE WILL START TO MISFIRE. THEN LOSE POWER (PUT THE GAS PETAL TO THE FLOOR AND CAR DOES NOT MOVE AND THE ENGINE DOES NOT REV UP DUE TO THE INCREASED GAS FLOW.) THE ENGINE WILL SHUTTER AND TURN OFF. LE IT SIT FOR 5 TO 10 MINUTES AND THE CAR WILL START. THE CAR WILL DRIVE FOR ANOTHER 5-10 MINUTES AND SHUT OFF AND WILL NOT RUN FOR START FOR SEVERAL MINUTES AND WILL NOT DRIVE BEYOND COUPLE HUNDRED FEET. WE HAVE REPLACED THE CAM SENSOR, CRANK SENSOR, EGR VALVE, SPARK WIRES, SPARKS, COIL PACKS, WATER PUMP, ALL BELTS, ALTERNATOR, BATTERY, AND SHORT BLOCK REBUILD (WARRANTY WORK). THE CODE WAS THE FIRST TIME WAS MISFIRE IN 1 AND 4 CYDERS, AFTER THE REBUILD THE CODE IS MISFIRE 2 AND 3 CYDERS. WE HAVE THE COMPUTER REPROGRAMMED TWICE. THE DEALERSHIP HAVE NO CLUE. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH ON NORMAL ROAD CONDITIONS, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED INTERMITTENTLY ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE AUTHORIZED DEALER, BUT THEY WERE UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER ON THREE SEPARATE OCCASIONS FOR THE SAME FAILURE, BUT THERE WAS NO RESOLUTION. RECENTLY, THE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR WAS REPLACED UNDER THE SERVICE WARRANTY; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED A FEW DAYS LATER. THE VEHICLE IS IN THE PROCESS OF BEING REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 24,500 AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 25,000. UPDATED 5/18/09 *CN UPDATED 05/20/09.*JB

I JUST BOUGHT MY 05 OPTIMA. IT ALSO TURNS ITSELF OFF--WHEN IT WANTS TO. AT FIRST-IT JUST DID IT IN REVERSE. THEN IT STARTED DOING IT DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER-WHO ALSO, COULD NOT DUPLICATE IT. THIS IS SCARY DRIVING THIS CAR. YOU HAVE NO WARNING--IT JUST TURNS EVERYTHING OFF--LIKE YOU NEVER STARTED THE CAR AT ALL. *TR

FROM THE DAY I HAVE PULLED MY CAR OFF THE LOT ONE YEAR AGO I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS. THE FIRST PROBLEM I ENCOUNTERED WAS EVERYTIME I CRANK MY CAR MY BELTS LET OFF THIS SQUEALING NOISE. AT EVERY OIL CHANGE I HAVE ASKED THEM TO DOUBLE CHECK THE BELTS. UPON PICKING UP THE CAR THE DEALER ASSURED ME THEY HAVE TIGHTEN THE BELTS ONLY TO HAVE THEM CONTINUE SQUEALING. THE OTHER ISSUE I HAVE IS THE FUEL TANK. I HAVE ALWAYS FELT I DO NOT GET A COMPLETE FILL UP WHEN GOING TO THE GAS STATION. I PUT THE NOZZLE IN THE TANK AND CLICK THE AUTO HOLDER TO FILL UP MY TANK AT THE POINT IT IS READY TO SHUT OFF GAS COME SPEWING OUT BEFORE IT SHUTS OFF. THEN YOU CHECK THE GALLONS ENTERED AND YOU REALIZE THAT YOU COULD HAVE PUT AT LEAST ANOTHER GALLON IN THE TANK BUT IT WON'T LET YOU. THE LAST MAJOR THING THAT I HAD TO TAKE MY CAR IN FOR WAS EVERY TIME I TURNED MY STEERING WHEEL IT MADE A TERRIBLE GRINDING NOISE. TAKING IT INTO THE DEALER THEY NOTIFIED ME THAT MY UPPER CONTROL MOUNT BOLT HAD COME LOOSE. IN ADDITION I WOULD LIKE TO MENTION THAT THE ACCELERATION THAT THE 2005 KIA OPTIMA REALLY STINKS. IT HAS NO ACCELERATION, IT BOGS DOWN AND ACTS LIKE IT WANTS TO SHUT OFF. SOMETIMES I HAVE TO TURN MY AIR CONDITIONING OFF JUST TO MAKE IT OUT OF AN INTERSECTION. I AM SO UNHAPPY WITH MY CAR IT IS NOT FUNNY. THE INCIDENT DATE IS ONGOING, NO SPECIFIC DATES. *NM

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED THE VEHICLE INTERMITTENTLY STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE RESTARTED EACH TIME AND WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALERSHIP. THE DEALERSHIP WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE PROBLEM.

I AM A DISABLED WOMAN WHO BECAME TRAPPED IN HER OWN CAR BECAUSE THE LOCK MECHANISM ON THE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN NOR COULD I ROLL DOWN THE WINDOW. THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE. I TRIED TO CLIMB OVER THE GEARSHIFT TO TRY THE PASSENGER DOOR AND HURT MY BACK IN THE PROCESS. I CALLED 911 FOR HELP

CLOSED DRIVER'S DOOR AND DOOR WOULD NOT REOPEN. I TOOK CAR TO AUTO SHOP AND MECHANIC FINALLY GOT DOOR TO OPEN AFTER ABOUT AN HOUR AND A HALF. HE THOUGHT HE HAD REPAIRED THE DOOR AND CLOSED IT, BUT WHEN HE TRIED TO OPEN THE DOOR FOR FINAL INSPECTION, AGAIN IT WOULD NOT OPEN NORMALLY AND UPON FURTHER INSPECTION HE FOUND THE DOOR LOCK MECHANISMS WERE NOT FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY FROM THE WAY THEY HAD BEEN MANUFACTURED. AND THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE KIA DOOR LOCK MECHANISMS INCLUDING MY CAR'S YEAR, MAKE AND MODEL. I AM CONCERNED THIS IS A SERIOUS HAZARD, ESPECIALLY SINCE I TRANSPORT SMALL CHILDREN, SOME IN CAR SEATS. MY CAR IS AN OLDER CAR AND I WOULD LIKE ALL FOUR LOCKS REPLACED WITH 'UP TO STANDARD' LOCKS.

DRIVERS SIDE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN, THIS HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES. WHEN YOU PULL ON THE OUTSIDE HANDLE IT WILL MAKE ALL THE DOORS LOCK SOMETIMES. I THOUGHT THIS WAS AN ISOLATED CASE, BUT THERE ARE SEVERAL OTHER COMPLIANTS WITH THIS SAME ISSUE. THIS IS A SEVERE SAFETY ISSUE IF THE CAR WAS IN A CRASH.

I BELIEVE THIS PROBLEM SHOULD BE A RECALL. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND NEEDS TO BE CORRECTED BY THE MANUFACTURER. WE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WHERE THE DRIVER DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN NO MATTER WHAT YOU DID,. IT WOULDN'T OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE. ALL THE OTHER DOORS WOULD OPEN, BUT THE DRIVER DOOR. IF YOU OPENED IT WITH THE KEY IT CLICKED, BUT WHEN YOU PULLED THE HANDLE TO OPEN THE DOOR IT WOULD LOCK.. IN ORDER TO GET OUT OF THE CAR MY HUSBAND, WHO HAS A BAD BACK HAD TO CLIMB OVER THE CENTER CONSOLE. YOU WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO GET OUT IN AN EMERGENCY AND THIS ISSUE NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED. ANOTHER ISSUE THAT WE ARE HAVING IS WE ARE ALWAYS REPLACING BULBS IN THE HEADLIGHTS AND TAILLIGHTS; ABOUT ONCE A MONTH. WE ARE FOREVER GETTING PULLED OVER BY THE POLICE TO TELL US OUR HEADLIGHT OR TAILLIGHT IS OUT. THERE SEEMS TO BE A LOT OF ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS WITH THIS CAR AND THEY NEED TO BE ADDRESSED. THE REPAIR COST FOR THE DOOR WAS $400.00 AND WE SHOULD BE REFUNDED AS WELL AS EVERYONE ELSE WHO HAS PAID TO REPAIR THIS DEFECTIVE ISSUE. *TR

PASSENGER SIDE DOOR NO LONGER OPENS. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. DRIVER MUST ENTER AND EXIT VEHICLE FROM PASSENGER SIDE. THIS IS DANGEROUS. KIA DEALERSHIP WAS NOT ABLE TO OPEN THE DOOR OR FIX THE PROBLEM... *TR

LOCKED CAR AFTER BUYING IT USED DRIVERS DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK. MULTIPLE COMPLAINTS ONLINE ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. MY DAUGHTER WAS GOING TO DRIVE THIS THING. KIA DEALER DID NOT EVEN MENTION THIS TO ME, BUT DID SAY IT WAS 200 MINIMUM. I HOPE THIS GETS INVESTIGATED. IN AN ACCIDENT THE DOOR WILL NEVER OPEN. I DROVE THE CAR HOME AND AFTER 2 HOURS IT WILL NOT UNLOCK.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. WHILE IN PARK, THE AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCKS FAILED. THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO USE THE REMOTE FOR ENTRY AND HEARD A CLICKING NOISE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 128,000.

DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN. YOU COULD CLICK IT AND IT WOULD SOUND LIKE IT WAS GOING TO OPEN, BUT IT DIDN'T. HAD TO DRIVE TO A KIA STORE AND HAVE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY REPLACED AT THE TUNE OF $450. INTERESTINGLY ENOUGH, THEY DID NOT SEEM TO THINK THIS WAS A COMMON PROBLEM, BUT I CAN SEE THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. I HAD MY TWO YEAR OLD GRANDSON IN THE BACK SEAT AND WAS VERY WORRIED ABOUT GETTING STUCK IN THE CAR. IF THIS HAPPENS AGAIN, I WILL SELL THE CAR. THERE SEEM TO BE A LOT OF ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS ON THIS CAR. I REPLACE THE HEADLIGHTS AND TAILLIGHTS REGULARLY (ABOUT ONCE A MONTH) AND I AM ALWAYS HAVING THE ENGINE LIGHT COME ON, WHEN THERE IS NOTHING WRONG. HOW MANY OF THESE COMPLAINTS DO YOU NEED BEFORE SOMETHING IS DONE? OR DOES SOMEONE HAVE TO GET KILLED FIRST? *TR

DRIVER'S DOOR WILL NOT OPEN, FROM EITHER INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. THE LOCKING MECHANISM WILL NOT UNLOCK, LEAVING NO EASY ACCESS OR EXIT TO OR FROM THE DRIVER'S SEAT. THIS IS QUITE A HAZARD AS THE OPERATOR COULD BECOME TRAPPED IN THE CAR IN AN EMERGENCY (AND THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN REPORTED ALL OVER THE INTERNET FOR SOME YEARS NOW AS BEING VERY COMMON TO THIS PARTICULAR CAR). WHY HAS NHTSA BEEN IGNORING THIS PROBLEM? *TR....UPDATED 12/09/15 *BF UPDATED 08/30/2017*CT

MY DRIVER SIDE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN BOTH FROM OUTSIDE AND INSIDE, SO I'VE TO GO THROUGH THE PASSENGER SIDE TO GET OUT AND GET IN THE CAR. *TR

NEITHER THE DRIVER DOOR OR PASSENGER DOOR WILL UNLOCK. THIS OCCURS FROM BOTH INSIDE AND OUTSIDE THE CAR. VERY UNSAFE CONDITION.

THE DRIVERS DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK, YOU CAN NOT OPEN THE DRIVERS DOOR. FOR THE DRIVER TO GET OUT OF THE CAR YOU HAVE TO GO OVER THE CONSOLE TO GET OUT THE PASSENGER DOOR. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE!!!!! TRIED TO UNLOCK WITH WILL NOT WORK.

KIA OPTIMA DOOR LOCK IS FAULTY, WILL NOT UNLOCK AND ONLY WAY TO GET DOOR OPEN IS TO USE A SLIM JIM (IF YOUR LUCKY) OR BREAK OPEN DOOR PANEL AND OPEN MANUALLY BY PULLING ON LOCKING MECHANISM. FAULTY PART IS A SMALL PLASTIC PART IN THE MECHANISM. THIS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM ON MANY KIA MODELS

II HAVE A 2005 KIA OPTIMA FOR ABOUT 3 YEARS NOW, FIRST PROBLEM WAS WITH THE AIR BAGS . I HAD THE LIGHT TO COME ON WILL THE CAR WAS BEING INSPECTED LAST YEAR FOR THEM TO TELL ME IT WAS THE SENSORS. I MADE A APPOINTMENT TO GET IT FIXED BUT WHEN I WENT THERE THE LIGHT WENT OFF THEN I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD A WEEK LATER AND THE LIGHT COMES BACK ON HAD IT CHECKED AGAIN AND THE SAME THINGS HAPPENS WILL THE LIGHT IS STILL ON. 2ND PROBLEM HAD THE TIMING BELT TO GO OUT SO I PURCHASED A USED MOTOR TO HAVE NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS. FIRST THE THROTTLE SENSOR WENT OUT REPLACED THAT FOR IT TO BURN UP WITHIN A HOUR OF IT BEING FIXED, THEN HAD TO HAVE THE CAR REWIRED BY THE DEALERSHIP NOW THE SIX MONTHS LATER THE DOOR LOCKS ARE TRIPPING ME IN THE CAR. THE CAR HAD SOME TYPE OF WIRING FIRE, WHICH CAUSED ME TO HAVE TO CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT,WHERE THE CAR FILLED WITH SMOKE. SO NOW I HAVE A CAR THAT HAS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON, AIR BAGS LIGHT ON, AND THE DOOR LOCKS ARE TRIPPING ME IN THE CAR. WHAT CAN I DO? *TR

DRIVERS SIDE DOOR WILL NO LONGER OPEN. WHEN I TRY TO UNLOCK IT FROM EITHER THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE, THE UNLOCK MECHANISM WORKS, BUT THE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN. I NOW HAVE TO CRAWL IN FROM ANOTHER DOOR AND WOULD NOT BE ABLE TO GET OUT IN AN EMERGENCY. THIS APPEARS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH KIAS AND COULD CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. THIS NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED WITH KIA. *TR

PASSENGER SIDE DOOR AUTOMATICALLY LOCKS WHEN YOU TRY TO OPEN IT. WHETHER IN OR OUT, IT WON'T OPEN. SOMETIMES IT WILL OPEN WITH A KEY OUT OF THE CAR, BUT WILL NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE. *TR

I HAVE HAD TO TAKE MY CAR TWICE NOW TO GET MY DRIVER SIDE DOOR OPEN, I HAVE BEEN HAVING TO CLIMB IN FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE OF MY CAR AND I HAVE HURT MY KNEES IN DOING SO. EVERYTIME I LOCK MY DOORS AND THEN UNLOCK THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR DOESN'T OPEN FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. THIS NEEDS A RECALL .I HAVE ALREADY SEEN OTHER COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SAME PROBLEM... *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD COME OUT OF GEAR WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH WHICH MADE IT DIFFICULT TO MOVE FORWARD. OCCASIONALLY, THE VEHICLE APPEARED TO BE IN THE NEUTRAL POSITION. OVER THE COURSE OF THE DAY THE VEHICLE WOULD GRADUALLY CORRECT ITSELF; ALTHOUGH, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WOULD ILLUMINATE AND STAY ON FOR A COUPLE DAYS. SHE TOOK THE VEHICLE TO SEVERAL DEALERS AND THE TRANSMISSION WAS REPLACED BUT THE PROBLEM RECURRED. SHE CALLED THE MANUFACTURER AND WAS INSTRUCTED TO TAKE HER VEHICLE TO THE DEALER. THE VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN REPAIRED TO-DATE. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 66,500. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 25,000.

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. SHE STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING, MAKING LEFT AND RIGHT TURNS OR DRIVING IN REVERSE THERE WAS A KNOCKING SOUND ON THE RIGHT PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE NEAR THE TIRES. THE CONTACT TOLD THE DEALER THAT THE FAILURE COULD BE RELATED TO THE CV SHAFT AND THE DEALER REPAIRED THAT PART; HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE CONTINUED TO MAKE THE KNOCKING SOUND. THE DEALER LATER CONFIRMED THAT THE AXLE NEEDED TO BE REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 62,000.

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED THE VEHICLE CONTINUOUSLY LOST TRANSMISSION FLUID. ALSO, WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE VEHICLE LOST ACCELERATION POWER, CAUSING A LAG IN THE PICKUP. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A SERVICE DEALER WHO WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE PROBLEM.

BRAKES TURNED TO SPONGE ON AT LEAST THREE SEPARATE OCCASIONS IN FALL 2009, AGAIN IN FEB 2010,SUMMER 2010 AND AGAIN 12/ 22/ 2010. AT FIRST OCCURRENCE WINTER OF 2009 I ASSUMED I HAD HIT ICE AND WAS UNABLE TO BRAKE FOR THAT REASON. HOWEVER, EVERY INCIDENT AFTER THAT CONFIRMED THAT ROAD CONDITION WAS NOT A CONTRIBUTING FACTOR. DURING FIRST EVENT THE BRAKES WERE NOT FUNCTIONING,CAR CONTINUED TO MOVE FORWARD AT RED TRAFFIC LIGHT. BRAKE FAILURE RECURRED TWICE AT 4 WAY STOP AND AGAIN ON RESIDENTIAL STREET AS I AM PREPARING TO PARK. NOTE THAT THESE INCIDENTS ALL OCCURRED AS I WAS CONSCIOUSLY SLOWING THE VEHICLE AND PREPARING TO COME TO A FULL STOP. SPEED OF VEHICLE AT THE TIME OF ALL THE ABOVE INCIDENTS IS ESTIMATED LESS THAN OR EQUAL TO 15 MPH. WHAT WE HAVE HERE IS VEHICLE THAT RANDOMLY WILL NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP ALTHOUGH INSPECTION REVEALS BRAKES ARE IN GOOD WORKING ORDER AND TIRES ARE NEW. DEALER INSPECTED VEHICLE FEB 12, 2010 AFTER CAR WOULD NOT STOP AT STOP SIGN CONSEQUENTLY I WAS FORCED TO TURN THE CAR INTO SNOW BANK TO HALT VEHICLE. OTHERWISE I WOULD HAVE BROADSIDED ONCOMING TRUCK IN N/S 4 WAY. DEALER COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING AND EVENT DID NOT REOCCUR WHEN DEALER TEST DROVE VEHICLE. LAST NIGHT 12/22/2010 HAD TO THROW CAR INTO PARK AND TURN OFF ENGINE IN MID TRAFFIC AS OTHER VEHICLES ARE BRAKING BECAUSE OF RAPID CHANGE TO SLOW IN 45 MPH ZONE. MY CAR IS CLIMBING HILL AS CARS AHEAD ARE BREAKING FOR STALLED, SLOW TRAFFIC. RANDOM PROBLEM WITH BRAKES OCCURS MORE OFTEN AT LOW TEMP ALTHOUGH HAS OCCURRED ONCE IN SUMMER. NOTE TEMPERATURE AT EVENT LAST NIGHT 28F AT 6:30 PM. BRAKE FLUID TESTED GOOD ON FEB 12, 2010 AT INSPECTION. BRAKES WERE IN FINE WORKING ORDER, TIRES NEW. COMPUTER DIAGNOSTIC INSPECTION CHECKED OUT FINE. I REPORTED SUBSEQUENT BRAKE FAILURE EVENTS TO KIA (AFTER FEB 12, 2010) BUT AFTER CALLING KIA ON 12/23/10 I FIND THEY DID NOT RECORD SAID EVENTS IN KIA DATABASE ALTHOUGH I WAS ASSURED MY PHONED IN REPORTS IN WERE DOCUMENTED. *LN

HYDRAULIC MASTER CYLINDER IN THE CLUTCH MALFUNCTIONED CAUSING THE CLUTCH TO STAY ENGAGED. I DID NOT HAVE A COLLISION BUT WAS FORCED TO LEAVE THE ROADWAY TO AVOID HAVING A TRUCK STRIKE ME FROM THE REAR. WHEN I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A DEALER THEY REFUSED TO LOOK AT THE VEHICLE UNLESS I PREPAID THEM, AND THEY WOULD LATER DETERMINE IF I WOULD REIMBURSED. NOTE THAT THE CAR HAD ONLY FOUR YEARS AND 27K MILES OF A 10 YEAR/100K WARRANTY. THIS DEFECT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND SOMEONE NOT HAVING MULTIPLE DEFENSIVE DRIVING COURSES AND TRAINING MAY NOT HAVE KNOWN HOW TO RESPOND. THE SITUATION WAS ENTERING ONTO AN INTERSTATE WITH HEAVY TRAFFIC. IF THE CAR HAD BEEN WORKING PROPERLY THE ENTRY WOULD HAVE BEEN SAFE WITH TIME TO SPARE. WITH THE CAR NOT ACCELERATING AND GIVING THE FEELING OF BEING IN NEUTRAL MOVING TRAFFIC HAD LITTLE OR NO TIME TO RESPOND. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. EVER SINCE THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED, THE LOW BEAM BULBS CONSTANTLY BLOW OUT. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE CLUSTER CONNECTORS FAILED AND THEY CLEANED THE CONNECTOR AND REPLACED THE BULBS. THIS DID NOT CORRECT THE FAILURE AND THE DEALER STATED THAT THEY COULD NOT PROVIDE A REMEDY. A REPORT WAS FILED WITH THE MANUFACTURER AND THEY STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT PURCHASED WITH AN ORIGINAL WARRANTY; THEREFORE, THEY WOULD NOT ASSIST. THEY FURTHER STATED THAT IF THE CONTACT WERE TO TAKE THE VEHICLE IN FOR A DIAGNOSTIC, THEY WOULD CONSIDER ASSISTING WITH THE REPAIR. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 40,000 AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 65,000.

THIS CAR IS EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC HEADLIGHTS THAT COME ON WHEN YOU START THE CAR AT NIGHT.THE PROBLEM I HAD WAS WE COULD NOT TURN ON THE HIGH BEAMS WHEN USING THIS FEATURE.MY DEALER SHOWED ME THEY ALL DO THIS.I HAD TO SLOW WAY DOWN BECAUSE OF THIS UNSAFE FEATURE. WE HAVE HAD OTHER CAR WITH THIS SAME FEATURE AND WE COULD ALWAYS USE THE HIGH BEAMS.

AFTER REPAIRING THE MASS AIR FLOW HOSE,PURGE VALVE,AND THE VALVE COVER GASKET. IT DIDN'T PASS THE STATE INSPECTION. I WAS TOLD TO DRIVE IT A LITTLE LONGER TO PUT MILES ON THE CAR. SO I DID.. AFTER SEVEN WEEK GOING BACK TO HAVE IT CHECK IT WAS STILL SHOWING NOT READY. THE MERCHANIC THERE COULDN'T TELL ME WHAT THE PROBLEM AND THEIR SUBJESTED TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER AFTER PUTTING 1175 MILES ON MY CAR

THE LIGHT FOR MY AIR BAG HAS BEEN STAYING ON AND MY HORN QUIT WORKING FOR OVER A YEAR NOW. I FINALLY TOOK IT TO THE SHOP FOR THEM TO LOOK AT IT, THEY TOLD ME IT WAS A CLOCK SWITCH (I BELIEVE I SAID THAT RIGHT) WHICH IS SOMETHING IN THE STEERING CONNECTED TO THE AIRBAG AND HORN. I AM CONCERNED THAT THE AIRBAG MIGHT ACTIVATE WHILE I AM DRIVING WHICH WOULD NOT BE GOOD. MAYBE EVEN NOT WORK IF I GET IN A WRECK.

AIRBAG LIGHT CAME ON FOR NO REASON AND WILL NOT GO OFF. THE DRIVER SEAT AND SUNROOF HAVE AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE WHERE THEY WORK THEN DON'T, FOUND THAT THE SWITCHES ARE BAD AND WORK SOMETIMES.

1. THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR LOCKS AND REFUSES TO UNLOCK. THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR CANNOT BE OPEN AND THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR KNOBS INSIDE AND OUTSIDE ARE NOT WORKING. THIS CAN BE A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION, BECAUSE THE DRIVER CANNOT ESCAPE THROUGH THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR. THIS ISSUE MUST BECOME A RECALL ITEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. (HAPPENED ON 05/13/2013, ABOUT 82,000 MILEAGE) 2. DRIVER SEAT (POWER) IS NOT WORKING SINCE ABOUT 52,000 MILEAGE. (AROUND SPRING 2010). *TR

DOORS, LOCKS, LINKAGE, UPON LEAVING WORK ON JUNE 16TH, 2010, I WENT TO UNLOCK THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR USING THE KEY AND THE CAR DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN. I OPENED THE CAR FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE AND CRAWLED OVER TO TRY TO OPEN THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR FROM THE INSIDE, NO LUCK. THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR HAS NOT AND WILL NOT OPEN FROM EITHER SIDE. HUGE SAFETY HAZARD!!! NO LUCK WITH KIA FIXING IT EITHER!!! *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA LX. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER REFUELING, FUEL WAS SEEN LEAKING FROM THE FUEL TANK. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A PRIVATE MECHANIC WHERE THE MECHANIC CONFIRMED THAT THE FUEL TANK NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND THE CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 97,000.

I AM UNABLE TO UNLOCK MY DRIVERS SIDE DOOR EITHER MANUALLY/KEY OR BY REMOTE ACCESS THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE DUE TO THE FACT THAT IF I NEED TO EXIT MY VEHICLE IN CASE OF AN EMERGENCY (FIRE AND OR CRASH) I WOULD BE UNABLE TO. ALSO, TWO OF MY REAR SEATBELTS ARE JAMMED IN THE HALF EXTENDED POSITION. I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY AND ALL HELP YOU CAN GIVE ME WITH THIS SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. *TR

I WENT TO KIA DEALERSHIP REGARDING KEYLESS REMOTE NOT WORKING. I ADVISED DEALERSHIP THAT BOTH REMOTES WERE RE-PROGRAMMED 12 MONTHS AGO AND THAT ONE REMOTE STOPPED WORKING 6 MONTHS AFTER RE-PROGRAMMING AND THE 2ND REMOTE STOPPED WORKING 12 MONTHS AFTER RE-PROGRAMMING. BASED ON DISCUSSION, IT APPEARS THAT 2003 THROUGH 2006 KIA OPTIMAS HAVE DEFECTIVE KEYLESS REMOTE SYSTEMS, BUT BECAUSE THERE HAS BEEN NO FORMAL RECALL, REPAIR OF KEYLESS REMOTE IS NOT COVERED OUTSIDE OF WARRANTY. I BELIEVE REPAIR COST IS ABOUT $400. MY OPINION IS THAT A RELATIVE KEYLESS REMOTE RECALL SHOULD BE MADE BY KIA SINCE THE KEYLESS REMOTE DEFECT IS NOT CUSTOMER'S FAULT. *TR

NEEDED TO REPLACE DOOR LATCH ON DRIVER'S SIDE. DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN FROM THE INSIDE. AIR BAG ON PASSENGER SIDE WILL NOT DEPLOY. *TR

THE BACK WINDOW OF MY 2005 KIA OPTIMA JUST BLEW OFF MY CAR, WENT AIRBORN AND HIT THE ROAD SHATTERING IT IN A ZILLION PIECES. THEIR WAS A VEHICLE BEHIND ME AND THANK GOD IT DID NOT LAND IN THEIR WINDSHIELD. THE GLASS COMPANY WAS HERE TO INSPECT AND THEY SAID THAT THE GLASS HAD BEEN GLUED ON TOP OF THE SEAL AND WASN'T INSTALLED CORRECTLY AT ALL. THAT IS WHY IT FLEW OFF LIKE IT DID. IT IS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY, BUT I CAN NOT GO WITHOUT MY VEHICLE. THEY WILL NOT COME TO MY HOUSE AND INSTALL THE WINDOW HERE, THEY INSIST THEY HAVE TO TAKE IT TO THEIR DEALERSHIP. ALL I WANT IS REIMBURSEMENT OF MY COST OF REPLACING THE WINDOW WHICH WOULD BE CHEAPER FOR THEM IN THE LONG RUN ANYWAY. *TR

BOTH LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS BLOW OUT SIMULTANEOUSLY. WHEN THIS HAPPENED, HIGH BEAMS (SEPARATE BULBS AND SWITCH) WOULD ONLY WORK SPORADICALLY (SWITCHED 'ON', NOTHING. SWITCHED AGAIN, MAY COME 'ON', TURNED 'OFF' THEN 'ON' MAY OR MAY NOT COME ON). DEALER STATES 'IT HAPPENS, THEY BURN OUT', YET SAID THE BATTERY NEEDED TO BE REPLACED.(?) NON WARRANTY, SO YOU PAY. ANOTHER COMPLAINT ON THE SAME CAR YEAR/MAKE/MODEL, SAME ISSUE, HAS ALREADY BEEN FILED WITH YOU. IN ADDITION, 'GOOGLE' SEARCH SHOWS MANY ENTRIES FOR THIS SAME PROBLEM ON KIA AND HYUNDAI VEHICLES (SAME MANUFACTURER) OVER MANY MODELS/YEARS. SIGNS POINT TO POSSIBLE DEFECTIVE CHARGING OF BATTERY BY VEHICLE'S ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (MAYBE WHY THEY REPLACED THE BATTERY AT THE SAME TIME). BATTERY WAS PREVIOUSLY FINE. I'VE HAD MANY ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR, THINGS STOP WORKING, THEN WORK ON THEIR OWN (POWER WINDOW WON'T WORK, STICKS PART OPEN. SWITCH DOES NOTHING. THEN SUDDENLY LATER WINDOW LOWERS/RAISES WITHOUT SWITCH BEING TOUCHED. TRUNK SUDDENLY POPS OPEN). DEFINITE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM ON THESE MAKE OF VEHICLES OVER MANY YEARS WHICH NEITHER MANUFACTURER IS GOING TO ADDRESS THEMSELVES. UNLESS YOU DO SOMETHING, MANY WILL BE PAYING FOR SERVICE CAUSED BY THEIR NEGLIGENCE. . ALSO, SEAT BELT DOES NOT RETRACT ALL THE TIME. MY VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED NEW. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. THE CONSUMER STATED THEIR 3 YEAR OLD SON ATTEMPTED TO BUCKLE HIMSELF IN WITH THE SEAT BELT WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN IF SLIPPED FROM HIS HAND AND WRAPPED AROUND THE 3 YEAR OLDS NECK. THE SEAT BELT CONTINUED TO RETRACT AND HE COULD NOT FREE HIMSELF. THE CONSUMER WIFE GRABBED THE TOP OF THE BELT AND KEPT IF FROM RETRACTING EVEN MORE, BUT WAS UNABLE TO RELEASE IT. THE CONSUMER HAD TO CUT THE SEAT BELT. THE FOLLOWING FRIDAY THE CONSUMER AND HIS WIFE WERE REAR ENDED AND THE HIS WIFE HAD TO GO TO THE EMERGENCY THE ROOM BECAUSE THE SEAT BELT HAD BEEN CUT A WEEK PRIOR. UPDATED 07/16/09. *JB UPDATED 07/14/09. *LJ

STOCK TIRES (ON STOCK RIMS) RUB AGAINST UNDERCARRIAGE UNTIL A BAND OF CORD ARE EXPOSED AND TIRES ARE CONSIDERED TO HAVE FAILED (OR POTENTIALLY AN ACCIDENT RESULTS). *TR

I HAVE A LOT OF COMPLAINTS. I HAVE A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. MY AIR BAG LIGHT HAS BEEN ON AND THE DEALERSHIP TOLD ME "ANYTIME ANYONE WITH ANY WEIGHT SITS DOWN ON THE SEAT IT WILL COME DISCONNECTED". I HAD IT FIXED ONCE AND NOW IT IS ON AGAIN. EVER SINCE I HAVE BOUGHT THIS CAR I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS. THE ONLY DEALERSHIP I CAN GO TO IS 2 HOURS AWAY BY FREEWAY. I AM AFRAID FOR MY FAMILY TO BE IN THIS CAR BECAUSE I DO NOT KNOW IF WE WILL BE PROTECTED AS WE SHOULD BE. THE FIRST TIME THAT IT BROKE DOWN WAS A WEEK AFTER WE BOUGHT IT AND THE MECHANICS TOLD ME THAT THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK, AND WHEN I HAD THE THROTTLE REPLACED THE MECHANICS AT THE DEALERSHIP DID NOT EVEN DO THE REPAIR CORRECTLY CAUSING THE CAR TO REV UP WHEN STOPPED. PLEASE HELP ME RESOLVE THE ISSUES I HAVE. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 KIA OPTIMA. WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE CONTACT NOTICED SMOKE COMING FROM UNDER THE DASHBOARD WHILE THE AIR CONDITIONER WAS RUNNING. THE SMOKE WAS SO THICK THAT HE COULD NOT SEE THROUGH THE SMOKE. THE DEALER WAS NOTIFIED AND STATED THAT THE CIGARETTE LIGHTER COULD BE THE POSSIBLE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THEY STATED THAT NOTHING COULD BE DONE BECAUSE THE VEHICLE WAS OUT OF WARRANTY. UPON FURTHER INVESTIGATION, THE CONTACT NOTICED A BLACK BOX ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE UNDERNEATH THE DASHBOARD COVERED IN ELECTRICAL TAPE. IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT THE PREVIOUS OWNER INSTALLED AFTER MARKET FLOOR BOARD LIGHTS IN THE VEHICLE THAT REQUIRED A MASSIVE AMOUNT OF POWER. THE TAIL LIGHTS ON THE VEHICLE WERE INOPERABLE. NO REPAIRS WERE MADE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE LESS THAN 77,000.

DT: STEERING MECHANISM PROBLEM CAUSED THE CONTACT'S VEHICLE TO VEERED TO THE RIGHT. THIS CAUSED VEHICLE TO COLLIDE WITH A FENCE. *AK UPDATED 1/11/2006 - *NM